Tanukiya

With its plump, rounded belly and cheerful facial expression, the Tanuki Monaka captures the shape of a raccoon dog down to the smallest detail. In Kita Ward's Oji, a neighborhood famed for its folklore of foxes, this sweet is the signature specialty of confectionery shop Tanukiya, which proudly bears the tanuki name instead. The front and back wafer halves are molded so the figure faces outward from either direction, giving the confection an eye-catching presence in the hand.

The shop's defining practice is filling each wafer shell in the back only after an order is placed. Biting into a freshly prepared piece yields an aromatic, crisp snap from the wafer, followed by the pleasant sweetness of moist bean paste. The standard brown shell encases whole-grain red azuki bean paste, while the white shell holds smooth, rich white bean paste, both calibrated to a modest, clean sweetness.

Chatting with the friendly owner inside the compact shop adds a pleasant rhythm to a walk through the neighborhood. To fully appreciate the light, crisp crunch of the wafer, eating one immediately after purchase is best, though boxed sets also make appealing gifts from a stroll. Payments are cash only, and stopping by to pick up even a single piece is welcome.